Sunday, December 28, 2025

Sound Travels in Babadag: the album. Audible edibles. Photos of the Beauty of the Place. Writings concerning the experience.

 

 


           https://jeffgburekprojects.bandcamp.com/album/sound-travels-in-babadag-romania

    “That Fear

YES, IT'S ONLY that fear, those searchings, tracings, tellings whose purpose is to hide the unreachable horizon. It's night again, and everything departs, disappears, shrouded in black sky. I am alone and must remember events, because the terror of the unending is upon me. The soul dissolves in space like a drop in the sea, and I am too much a coward to have faith in it, too old to accept its loss; I believe it is only through the visible that we can know relief, only in the body of the world that my body can find shelter. I would like to be buried in all those places where I've been before and will be again...

-- Andrjez Stasiuk

This summer I finally reached a milestone in my travels by reaching the city named in Stasiuk’s book “On the Road to Babadag” – it was not as far flung as the cities of Moldavia I had wanted to reach this year but well enough. Spending time in Iași, even busking on the main drag, left me with some Gitanic flavors of the region and, Iași, after all was once part of the old state of Moldova.

“I never asked for a pure sound.” -- Stasiuk, again

These field recordings are perhaps as pure as I get however, without me even demanding it. Recorded in the foothills and meadows & forests in view of Babadag (= Father Mountain in Turkish) between that citadel, the ancient Genoese Fortress Enisala and a village of the same name. On tippy toes at certain hillocks you can catch glimpses of lakes Babadag and Razim on the horizon, which I took at first to be the Black Sea itself, that same Black Sea as those monopolizing Genoese merchants wanted to keep an eye of dominion scanning over from that huge stone tower they built. Nearby is also a Neolithic settlement under archeological investigation so efficiently fenced-off we could not imagine any sneak-peak access. The old world remains far away.

This album spans my various modes, druthers, habits and of course incorporates my flaws in technique despite the fact I have cleaned up my act as much as possible. The first track is one of those attempts to be in the every dimension at once: the VLF radio puts my head in the ionosphere, a ground wire catches electromagnetic earth charges as my feet traverse dry grasses and the Zoom6 XY or the Audiotecnica shotgun mic accumulate other sonic detail artifacts as I try to look into the starry or cloudy sky convincing myself I can actually “hear” pulsars via quantum entanglement with my body. I love this track in particular, no matter what.

Recorded partly in the later evening of July 23 and periodically during the day and early of July 24, the album follows time’s arrow. Therefore some of it is fairly quiet. Not even crickets. And I didn’t do a thing to make it more exciting than it is and there are surprises for which the dear listener must wait. I do, however, during the course of the last few tracks, engage my inner child via DX scanning the shortwave bands while listening to late night insect concerti, campfire, winds, owls and the Eurasian jackal yelps and those mysterious muted pooms in the distance, artillery practice from army bases over the hills. There is more Babadag material so there could be a sequel. Time will tell.